The Magic of Tinned Fish

May 17, 2021
Brooklyn chef McDade makes a strong case that tinned fish is the ultimate game-changing protein in his excellent debut, arguing that preserved fish “can be just as, if not more, versatile and delicious than their fresh counterparts.” French, Spanish, and U.S. influences inform the collection, which highlights all types of tinned seafood—from sardines and shellfish to squid and octopus—and how best to prepare each (some salted anchovies, for instance, need to first be soaked in cold water). The anchovy is showcased in a simple yet satisfying anchovies, bread, and butter snack, then moves to a “supporting role” in a dish of grilled broccoli, pistachios, and Green Goddess dressing that offers a delightful punch with blended herbs and jalapeno. A celebratory presentation of sardines on a board suggests mixing cans of different-flavored sardines along with various complementary nibbles such as olives, almonds, potato chips, and spicy mustard, and breakfast gets its due with smoked trout and scrambled eggs on an everything bagel with horseradish. Meanwhile, a zesty celery and octopus salad makes a delicious case for branching outside one’s traditional tinned go-tos. Thanks to McDade’s assured guidance, those curious about this understated pantry staple will have no trouble diving in. Salty and satisfying, these recipes hit the spot.